For entire generations of Bangkok residents who spent their summer vacations on the long white sand beach of Hua Hin, the city has retained despite the insolence of its modern towers, the delicious scent of aristocracy. Known since ancient times, the city was abandoned for the first time in 1760, during the Burmese-Thai war and the fall of the city of Ayutthaya. In 1834, a small group of fishermen fleeing the neighboring province of Phetchaburi reinvested the north of the locality which they then called Samore Riang (rows of stones). The history of Hua Hin then merges with that of the Thai monarchy. In 1909 at the end of King Rama V's reign, a railway company engineer Henry Gittins inspected the site with the aim of building a line to the south. He is struck by the beauty of the coast and by the particular configuration of its rock formations. Back in Bangkok, he encourages the railway company to embark on the construction of a station. A small wooden station of red and cream color opened its doors in 1911. Made in the "gingerbread" style, according to local terminology, it would quickly become the tourist symbol of the city and one of the most beautiful stations. from the country.

Fashionable resort

With the extension of the railway line in 1916 to British Malaysia, new accommodation was created for travelers wishing to spend one or more nights in the old small fishing port. Under the leadership of King Rama VII who built in 1920 a first summer palace to escape the heat of the capital, Hua Hin (literally the head of the rock) became "The" fashionable seaside resort. A year earlier, a Scottish engineer by the name of AO Robins had been commissioned to create the Royal Hua Hin Golf Course, Thailand's first golf course located in the immediate vicinity of the station. In the interwar period, good Thai society began to play croquet. She collects small crabs under the rocks and builds huge sandcastles for her children. Wealthy holidaymakers are also passionate about long horseback rides on the large three-kilometer beach. The more daring explore the jungle on the back of elephants or go by boat for excursions to the neighboring islands in the company of local fishermen. At nightfall, the open-air cinemas show the latest Hollywood movies in vogue, while the Friday evening jazz concerts given in the many palaces are gradually helping to forge the reputation of the places.

Lifestyle

Nowadays, if the Thai monarchy and influential members of the government still own sumptuous villas by the sea, the land on which stood the majority of old properties, has often been sold to developers to make way for modern hotels. With the notable exception of Laksasubha Kridakorn, the great-granddaughter of Prince Naresra Varariddhi, who was the first member of the royal family to build his summer palace in Hua Hin. "Lak", as it is affectionately named, decided in fact in the early 90s to follow in the footsteps of its illustrious ancestor. In 1994, thanks to a heritage, she undertook the construction of 17 villas in a seaside style on the site where the family home was originally located. "I try to preserve my great-grandfather's dream" she declared to the Thai press during the creation of her luxurious guest houses. A little further away, the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin also cultivates this largely bygone art of living in its own way. First hotel built in 1923 by Prince Purachatra and architect Antonio Rigazzi to accommodate King Rama VII's suite, the ex-Railway is currently considered with its 13-hectare private park as one of the most romantic establishments in Asia. Its fully preserved decor, typical of the colonial era in the Kingdom of Siam, was used in particular for the filming of the film "The Killing fields" - La Déchirure in French - by director Roland Joffé, 1985 Oscar for best actor for a supporting role (Haing S. Ngor).

Divine apparition

Antithesis of the frenetic and often cheeky bustle of Pattaya, Hua Hin is a booming resort as well frequented by Thais as by foreigners. Today, the royal family still has its summer quarters there, as evidenced by the three warships anchored in the bay and responsible for its surveillance. At 21^e century, the city is best known to tourists for its tranquility, its seafood restaurants, its five-star hotels and its eight international quality golf courses within a radius of less than 30 kilometers. In addition to the essential visit to the palace of Klai Kangwon built in 1927 by Rama VII, the arts and crafts center or the night markets, nature enthusiasts will have the choice between Namtok Pa La-u, a spectacular fall of water and a visit to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park (300 hills in Thai). This magnificent place located 63 km south of Hua Hin is a refuge for migratory birds. It is also home to many mysterious caves. Inside one of them, sits like a divine apparition, the famous Phra Thinang Khuha Kharuehat, an elegant wooden pavilion of traditional style made in Bangkok in 1890 during the reign of Rama V. Dismantled and transported in the cave where it was completely rebuilt, a large opening at the top of the huge cavity lets the sun's rays pass. This sudden clarity allows tropical vegetation to resume its rights and illuminates during the day in a surprising way the royal pavilion whose four peaks with gables were erected by the king in person. A moment of pure magic in the middle of the jungle that should not be missed under any circumstances. Even if this requires climbing a high hill bordering the beach and continuing with a dizzying descent into the bowels of the earth ...

David RAYNAL to Hua Hin (text and photos)

Golfing in the immediate vicinity of Hua Hin:

Palm Hills Golf Course

Characterized by an extraordinary geography and surrounded by mountains, this 18-hole course was designed by the architect Max Wexler, known worldwide for his experience in the creation of several internationally renowned golf courses.

www.palmhills-golf.com

The Springfield Royal Country Club

This magnificent 27-hole course with its all different and unique landscapes has been designed to stimulate the golfers' senses and appetite for competition. A championship course with 5 sets of tees offers several levels of difficulty.

www.springfieldresort.com/golf

The Royal Hua Hin golf Course

Opened in 1924, the Royal Hua Hin golf course is the country's oldest golf course. It offers attractive tee offs in the middle of the jungle with a breathtaking view of the Gulf of Thailand. Designed by a Scottish railway engineer AO Robins, the Royal Hua Hin is located in close proximity to the train station and the city center.

http://www.golfhuahin.com/royalhuahin.htm

Black Mountain Golf

Opened in 2007, this course is located in the heart of a natural valley with several pools of water near each hole. The Black Mountain course requires a very special concentration from each player. It has already hosted three international tournaments and has won several international awards. In 2014, for example, it was voted "Best Golf Course in Asia-Pacific".

http://www.blackmountainhuahin.com

The Banyan Golf Club

Opened in 2008, this extremely technical course offers golfers the opportunity to play in the great outdoors in a preserved and almost wild environment. Its assertive Thai-style clubhouse offers the services of a five-star establishment. This exceptional golf course appears in the “Top 1000” of the Rolex list which lists the thousand best courses in the world.

http://www.banyanthailand.com

The Sea Pine Golf Hua Hin

One of the newest golf courses in Hua Hin, it faces the seaside area of ​​Khao Takieb to the south of the city. This 18-hole course that runs along the sea is notably divided by the railway that connects Bangkok to Phuket.

http://www.golfasian.com/golf-courses/thailand-golf-courses/hua-hin/sea-pine-golf-course

The Majestic Creek Country Club

This 27-hole course spanning 7 hectares in the heart of lush nature was created by the architect Sukitti Klangvisai. Recent renovations have allowed this golf course to rise to the level of the best courses in the region. Golfers particularly appreciate the complementarity between courses A and B.

http://www.majesticcreekcc.com

Imperial Lake View Resort & Golf Club

The Imperial Lake View Resort & Golf Club is the first 36-hole golf course in the vicinity of Hua Hin. It is located a little inland, set back from the seaside resort among farms and orchid fields. The great diversity of the 18-hole “The Imperial Lake View”, “The Desert Course” and “The Lake View links course” courses will surprise both beginners and experienced players.

http://www.imperialhotels.com/imperiallakeview/default-en.html

Housing :

Hyatt Regency Hotel

Hua Hin 91 Khao Takiap Road, Nong Kae Hua Hin
Prachuap Khiri Khan, 77110 Tel. +66 32 521 234
http://huahin.regency.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

Dusit Thani Hua Hin Hotel

1349 Petchkasem Road Cha-am, Petch Buri, 76120
Phone. +66 32 520 009 - www.dusit.com/dusitthani/huahin

Asara Villas & Suites Hua Hin Hotel

53 Hua Hin, Soi 5, Prachuab Kirikhan
Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110
http://www.asaravillaandsuite.com

Anantara Hua Hin Hotel

43/1 Phetkasem Beach Road
Hua Hin 77110
http://huahin.anantara.com

Evason Hua Hin Hotel

9 Moo 5, Paknampran Beach
Pranburi Prachuap Khirikhan 77220
http://www.sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/hua-hin/destination

For dinner :

Supatra by the Sea

Excellent selection of fish and seafood cooked Thai style.
www.supatra-bythesea.com

Palm Restaurant at Centara Grand Beach

Impressive choice of unlimited Thai and Western cuisine in buffet or à la carte form.
1 Damnernkasem Road
Hua Hin 77110
http://www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/chbr

Tourist Office of Thailand: http://www.tourismethaifr.com/Accueil/index.tpl

Find all the golf courses in Thailand: http://www.golfasian.com/golf-courses/thailand-golf-courses