On the Adriatic coast in Croatia, the region of Istria conceals two astonishing courses, in a unique setting: the Adriatic Golf and the 18 holes of the Brioni archipelago The dream opportunity to discover clubs in hand the art of live local and its majestic landscapes.

- By Franck Crudo

Croatia is a Central European country renowned for its sporting achievements, like its place as a finalist in the last FIFA World Cup against France. In addition to the round ball (Luka Modric was elected Golden Ball 2018), this nation of only 4 million inhabitants regularly shines in tennis (with Goran Ivanisevic or the Davis Cup victory last year against ... France), in basketball (Toni Kukoc won three NBA championships with the Chicago Bulls alongside Michael Jordan in the 90s), in handball (the national team is double Olympic champion) in skiing (Janica and Ivica Kostelic) or even in water- polo shirt, very popular in the Balkans.

But no notable feat in golf. It must be said that with only around a thousand practitioners and three 18 holes (including one in Zagreb), our favorite game is still underdeveloped in Croatia. And this, in spite of an enormous tourist potential, vast and sumptuous uninhabited landscapes and twenty golf projects in gestation for years. But it does not matter the quantity as long as we have the quality since two courses like no other look over the Adriatic coast, in the north-west of the country, and make you want to discover with your driver one of the most beautiful regions of Europe. : Istria.

Adriatic Golf, a clever mix

  • Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature
    Adriatic Golf - Photo: DR

On the north-western tip of Istria, this 18-hole course, built in 2009, is distinguished first of all by its truly exceptional panorama, especially from the clubhouse or the putting green. With the Adriatic Sea as a backdrop, we can distinguish, in addition to Croatia, no less than three different countries: nearby Slovenia (the border is a few kilometers away), the Austrian Alps with snow-capped peaks as well as the Italian Dolomites and Trieste. . You can almost guess Venice, located a hundred kilometers to the west. A postcard decor!

Only small regret: we lose this unique view once on the course, which enters the land. Nothing to say, however, on the route, perfectly maintained and subtly varied. Each hole offers a different design and challenge, sometimes flat, sometimes hilly, with many bunkers (93), very wide firm and rolling fairways or, on the contrary, surrounded by trees and a few lakes to give a real character to the surrounding decor. . In short, a course where you never get bored but which does not give way, like the "monster" - this is the nickname of hole n ° 13, a par 5 that defies the horizon - and as suggested by the best card rendered in competition (68, -4).

http://www.golf-adriatic.com/en/

Brioni, the fantastic island

  • Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature
    © TPlassais / Swing-feminin.com

It is a unique golfing experience that you are about to live by taking the ferry in Fazana, in the south of Istria, to reach (in a quarter of an hour) the Brioni (or Brijuni) nature reserve. This archipelago, classified as a national park, was transformed into a holiday resort for the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy at the beginning of the XNUMXth century.e century, before becoming after the war the residence of Tito, who welcomed all the foreign heads of state there.

Here, in the midst of deer, rabbits, peacocks, gulls and even ... onlookers with a stroller (this is a park open to all), you are driving on a 100% natural course inaugurated for the first time in 1922 and rebuilt in 1993. Here, no pesticides, irrigation or drainage system, no fairways, roughs or bunkers, at least in the usual sense. Here, the greens are… in hardened sand. As a result, it is impossible to pitch and, a bit like on frozen greens, you have to aim a few meters upstream in order to hold the ball and hope to putter for birdie. On hole n ° 9, Vanja Nikolic, the director of the golf course, even suggests that you aim for the small road to stop the ball not far from the flag!

But the main thing is not there since in Brioni, you will have the feeling of living a day of golf definitely like no other, with the turquoise waters of the Adriatic to keep you company, especially on the way out. Depending on the season, the color of the course turns from green (winter, spring) to yellow in summer. The maintenance of a 100% natural golf course is not necessarily an easy task, contrary to what one might think. “As there are animals everywhere, they poke holes on the greens, sometimes huge holes in wet weather. Every morning, we have to pass the net, a bit like on a clay tennis court. And several times a year, if the wind blows too hard, we have to put sand back on the greens ”, underlines Vanja Nikolic, who aims to build another “real” 18 holes on the island in order to make it a unique golfing spot in Europe. Although it already is ...

http://www.np-brijuni.hr/en/sports/golf

What to visit?

  • Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature
    Kozlovic - Photo: DR

25 minutes' drive from Adriatic Golf, you can taste at Momian wines (mainly white) and visit the Kozlovic winery, one of the most famous producers in Croatia. A must for lovers of Sauvignon or Muscat.

https://www.kozlovic.hr/en

  • Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature
    Stari Podrum - Photo: DR

Right next door, at the restaurant Old Basement, Ingrid and the whole Zrnic family will serve you delicious local dishes, often based on truffles. No trace of Mr. Preskovic's kloug on the card, however.

http://staripodrum.info/en.html

Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature

Photo: DR

About forty minutes from the golf course, on the road to Zabreb, one of the 15 best olive oils in the world (according to the Flos Olei Guide Italian) is produced on the hillside in the village ofIpsi. Klaudio welcomes you for a tasty snack that has already attracted some greats from this world, such as Slovak President Andrej Kiska or former UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon.

https://www.coloursofistria.com/en/food-and-wine/olive-oil/ipsa-olive-oil-in-the-highest-world-ranks

http://www.ipsa-maslinovaulja.hr/GB/o_nama.html

  • Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature
    Puntulina - Photo: DR

Between Adriatic Golf and the islands of Brioni (1 hour drive), stop at Rovinj. The “little Croatian Venice” has a crazy charm, with its colorful houses (in every sense of the word) built three centuries ago. A lunch or dinner break is required the Puntulina, a steep seaside restaurant, set on a rocky promontory, which offers a breathtaking setting. Unforgettable ! The owner of the establishment, Giovanni Pellizzer, a big fan of golf and 11 index, will reveal to you in particular the secret to tame the sandy greens of Brioni: "You have to keep the ball low and make it roll, like in Scotland!" "

http://www.puntulina.eu/

Where to stay?

  • Croatian Istria, when golf connects with nature
    The 5 * Kempinski hotel - Photo: DR

5 minutes walk from Adriatic Golf, the 5 * hotel Kempinski has 21 suites and 165 rooms with large bay windows for a unique panorama (sea side). The establishment has 2 restaurants, 3 bars, 3 swimming pools, 4 tennis courts and a pretty spa (open from 9 a.m. to 21 p.m.), which offers a relaxing course, mixing hot and cold, dry and wet, with different aromatic scents. Ideal for forgetting all your double bogeys ...

https://www.kempinski.com/en/istria/hotel-adriatic/

Frank Crudo